When two of my closest friends in New York married, they didnt ask me to make the cake, but they did give me the navy blue stand mixer they received as a wedding present. I am a much better cook for having done so (after almost committing Joy of Cooking 1960's edition to memory growing up and as a new bride in the late 70's). Because German buttercream incorporates a significant amount of milk into the underlying custard, it's the perfect technique for creating flavorful infusions with vanilla beans, cinnamon sticks, sliced bananas, fresh herbs, or whatever ingredients you'd normally reach for when flavoring ice cream at home. Reduce speed to low and sprinkle in one-third of the flour/cocoa, followed by a third of the red wine. There were inexplicably dense, flabby and elastic cakes, some still trembling and raw at the center, or a bit too browned at the edges, or forgotten and burned, or stuck tight in an unlined, ungreased pan, scratched out and served in crumbling pieces. When fully covered, scatter the cocoa nibs on top to mimic ermine spots: If you take a step back and fling the nibs like you would a Frisbee, theyll stick to the sides in a random yet natural pattern (spoiler alert: Its really, really fun). Meanwhile, stir the thick pudding in its dish to create a thick, dough-like mass. Place about 3/4 cup chopped white chocolate in a microwave-safe bowl and heat in the microwave in 30 seconds bursts, stirring after each, until just melted. Our best tips for eating thoughtfully and living joyfully, right in your inbox. Divide among the prepared cake pans (about 22 ounces each). Loved it. Because its an oil-based cake, it stays tender for days. It may look a little lumpy and weird early on, but keep whisking until it's silky-smooth and bubbling hot. Frosting is the original plastic wrap. I acknowledge that I have read and agree to the Penguin Random Houses Privacy Policy and Terms of Use and understand that Penguin Random House collects certain categories of personal information for the purposes listed in that policy, discloses, sells, or shares certain personal information and retains personal information in accordance with the policy. Line three 8-by-3-inch anodized aluminum cake pans with parchment and grease with pan spray. Place 1 layer on a heavy cast iron turntable. After diving into the r/Old_Recipes rabbit hole, I found a fellow user had put out a call for the best German chocolate cake recipes a few months back. After some researching at my kitchen island, we learned the cake gets its name from the chocolatier who created German chocolate, Samuel German. Sure, it's not the fastest option, but if you're in a hurry, that's whatSwiss buttercreamis for. But one never knows. Not only will they be more inclined to tear and shed crumbs while warm, all that escaping steam will only encourage the cakes to dry out. Shave the white chocolate with a coarse-bladed Microplane and use a spoon to sprinkle white chocolate over the top and sides of the cake. By rejecting non-essential cookies, Reddit may still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality of our platform. Devil's Food Cake with Chocolate Swiss Buttercream Frosting About 2 hours, plus 1 1/2 hours chilling, Tara Parker-Pope, VegNews Holiday Cookie Collection, Tejal Rao, Kate Leahy, John Lee, Ara Zada. The differences are night and day. She was named one of Americas Best New Pastry Chefs by Food & Wine. To Make the Custard: Whisk sugar and cornstarch together in a medium bowl, followed by eggs. If you've got some high-end dark chocolate on hand, this is a great opportunity to use it, but my favorite supermarket options include brands like Endangered Species 72% and Chocolove 77%. Besides, I'm all about having a little something to trim away, because cake scraps are the best snack in the world. I was relying on the recipe stating color to redden once baked since batter looked brown. Once I started working at American food magazines, tinkering every year with gingerbread recipes, I wished for something different, and lighter in texture. Bakers Chocolate was one of the first American baking-chocolate brands, founded by an entrepreneurial lawyer turned chocolatier named Walter Baker in the mid-18th century. I became good enough, at least, that I was enlisted to make birthday cakes for my friends. You are so lucky to attend Stella's class. Stella Parks knowledge is formidable and her baked goods are brilliant, exactly the type of things we crave., From an award-winning pastry chef and a James Beard Award-nominated writer for. Use buttercream immediately, or transfer to a large zipper-lock bag, press out the air, and seal. The color did change slightly but still looked pretty brown to me. I followed the recipe at home, amazed. With straight-sided pots, the custard may curdle or scorch in the corners of the pan; normally, that's a great excuse to put a ball whisk to work, but the thickness of this custard will collapse its tines, making it difficult to emulsify. Buttercream can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks and frozen for up to several months. Baker's Chocolate started circulating the recipe and the rest is chocolaty history. Because temperature-related problems are so easy to solve, German buttercream can be made in advance and frozen for several months, then thawed in a microwave and re-whipped on demand. Privacy Policy. It was a cake born of marketing, says Jessica Reed, a cake historian and the author of The Bakers Appendix. Once the cake is coated in a thick, even layer of buttercream, I pop it in the fridge for about 30 minutes, then coat the whole dang thing inhomemade Oreowafer crumbs. These horrifying clips should have put me off, or slowed me down, but instead they propelled me to attempt more and more complicated techniques, and produce more elaborate cakes. Dark chocolate and Dutch cocoa make this devil's food twice as chocolaty. That may sound like a weird way to describe the process, but unlike the sort of gooey-soft custard you'd find in a cream puff, the custard base of a German buttercream is meant to provide body and structure to the frosting, so it's nearly as thick as a cookie dough. These meticulously tested recipes bring an award-winning pastry chefs expertise into your kitchen, along with advice on how to mix it up with over 200 customizable variationsin short, exactly what youd expect from a cookbook penned by a senior editor at Serious Eats. Not only that, it's the fastest cake recipe I know. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. When the time's up, scrape the finished custard into a baking dish or pie plate and spread into a thin layer to speed the cooling process. No one I spoke to at the Morning News could provide any additional details on Mrs. Clays identity or background, but from then on, according to that 1997 Morning News article, everywhere the recipe was published, food editors were swamped with requests for information on where to buy the chocolate. The cake only got better as time went on, providing delicious leftovers for days. 3. Although many of these cakes have since fallen out of fashion, German chocolate has remained a staple of many American bakeries. Set aside on a wire rack until the pans, and the cakes, are completely cool to the touch, about 90 minutes. Spread on warm cake. German created his special chocolate for the Baker's Chocolate Company in 1852, and in 1957, the Dallas Morning News featured a cake using the chocolate, created by a Texas homemaker, as its recipe of the day. Leave a Private Note on this recipe and see it here. I used to recommend beating the custard in a stand mixer until smooth, but over-mixing at that stage can damage the custard's thickening power, so the safest option is to mix it by hand and beat the butter instead. She was the pastry editor at Serious Eats from 2016 to 2019. . I am in love with her take on classic American pastry staples like the fluffy homemade white bread that begs to be turned into a PB&J or the flaky, tangy hand apple pies like the ones you cant pass up at the McDonalds drive-thru., Christina Tosi, chef, founder, and owner of Momofuku Milk Bar, Reading Stella Parkss BraveTart takes us to an extremely decadent, fun placeand beyond: our immersion in the quirky history of American baking is as satisfying and fascinating as these recipes are delicious and impeccably rendered!, Stella has given us all a gift in recreating these wonderful recipes. Much like my family, baking is both a remedy for my stress and a source of it. I came back to this confluence of ginger and dried plums, the flavors that had been with me my whole life. Switch to the whisk attachment for this stage, and whip the buttercream until it's fluffy and light. But my very favorite part of the day was how much I learned. Parks made a red wine velvet cake with cream cheese German buttercream frosting and homemade chocolate sprinkles. Top with exactly 1 cup buttercream, using an offset spatula to spread it evenly from edge to edge. Stella Parks's Blog - Goodreads Author of the IACP Award-nominated cookbook, Cooking with Scraps. And once you've done it the right way, it gets easier every time. There was the occasional pretty cake, too, but it would be crushed in the fridge by a toppling container of leftovers, or balanced on the narrow sill of an open kitchen window (because isnt that what they did in cartoons?) There is, without fail, a reliable slab of sticky toffee, packed with mashed, rehydrated dates, zapped under the broiler until its sauce of brown sugar and cream is bubbling furiously all along the top. These differences in temperature and volume affect everything about the buttercream, from sweetness to yield. A heavier weight per cup indicates the frosting is too cool, and/or under-whipped, and will result in a dense, greasy frosting that may seem too sweet. Dread motivated me in the kitchen, in the same way a looming deadline motivated me at my laptop. In a year, sales jumped 73 percent. Open it up again and spread it flat on your work surface. This makes the buttercream seem less sweet, with a billowy consistency and pleasant richness that melts quickly and cleanly on the tongue. I didnt taste gingerbread, but I always had a fantasy of gingerbread, as a warming cake that kids ate in snowy cabins. But I dont worry about it too much: The buttercream covers it all up. A combination of vanilla beans and extract gives this buttercream a deep vanilla flavor. Classic Yellow Layer Cake with Fudge Frosting. Anyone can read what you share. We baked our birthday cake in two round pans, stacking it into layers and icing it with the coconut custard concoction when it was cool. Reprinted with permission of W.W. Norton & Company, Inc. All rights reserved. Priya Krishna is a food writer and the author of the college-centric cookbook Ultimate Dining Hall Hacks and Indianish. Stella Parks - Serious Eats Combine some butter and hot coffee in a large pot, and warm over low heat until melted. For the Cake: Combine butter and coffee or tea in a 5-quart stainless steel pot or saucier over low heat. The cake looks intimidating at first, but Ms.. For the Crumb Coat: Level cakes with a serrated knife (full directions here) and set scraps aside for snacking. Pour into a piping bag with a small round piping tip. So does the spelt flour, which has a natural, round sweetness. Not only does this do a better job of homogenizing the ingredients (its hard to evenly whisk salt and baking soda into flour when theyre all the same color! Coconut and pecan were common in desserts like Lane cake, a white cake with a bourbon, coconut, pecan, and raisin filling that rose to fame after it was mentioned in To Kill a Mockingbird. Ever wondered how to make your own Heath-like chocolate toffee or even a Reeses Peanut Butter Cup? And the icing, which includes a stick of margarine and plenty of coconut and pecans, sounded like the perfect complement. 9 ounces all-purpose flour, such as Gold Medal (about 2 cups, spooned; 255g) 1 tablespoon (about 13g) baking soda To Finish: 1 recipe chocolate Swiss buttercream or other frosting 5 ounces finely ground Oreo wafer crumbs (about 1 cup; 140g), store-bought or homemade (optional) Directions Stella Parks Coconut Cake : Top Picked from our Experts On Serious Eats she explains further why the 3-inch depth is important, saying: If using a pan that's only two inches deep or less, you cakes will still be pretty tasty, but bear in mind they'll rise less, which will give them a denser texture, a more pronounced dome on top, and deeper surface browning. Heat until melted, then add coconut and chopped nuts. More importantly, however, Dutch-process cocoas tend to be high-fat (around 20% cocoa butter or more), while natural cocoa powder tends to be low-fat (10% cocoa butter or less). Community member Margaret Winchell tested this recipe for the Book-Off review of Parks book, pairing the cake with a custard-boosted cream cheese frosting (the recipe for which is also found in Parks book), and dusting the top and sides with shaved white chocolate and cocoa nibs. The thing with this spongecake is to separate the yolks and whites. Texture was moist so if you are wanting a wine cake, then this is one for you. This cakes color hinges on the anthocyanins found in red wine and raw cocoa, as even organic brands of natural cocoa powder lose their colorful potential in the roasting process. George Clay of 3831 Academy Drive appeared in the June 3, 1957, edition of The Dallas Morning News, in the papers Recipe of the Day column. German Buttercream (Whipped Vanilla Custard Frosting) Recipe - Serious Eats It was as delicious as you'd expect, and it was even sweeter to personally thank Parks for her ongoing participation in our Baking Club, long after the month her book was featured. (The main issue with longer storage in the freezer is odor absorption, not spoilage.). Parks also shared that buttercreams ideal temperature range is between 70 and 74 F and its weight should be around 6 ounces per cup. It doesnt make a difference, because we all make it the same way. Davide Luciano for The New York Times. Thanks. To better synchronize the downtime in both recipes, make the cream cheese frosting (see headnote for link) before the cake. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until custard turns thick and lumpy, about 3 minutes (the timing can vary depending on the specifics of your stove and cooking vessel, so adjust the heat accordingly if it seems to move too slow). Press a sheet of plastic against the surface and refrigerate until thick and cool, about 1 hour, or to roughly 68F (20C). Since cocoa powder and dark chocolate are the backbone of this cake, there's no room to cut corners with low-fat cocoa powder or sweet chocolate, so take the time to source the right ingredients. "A homemaker or housewife spent time writing, typing or clipping these recipes and organizing them in the system that worked for them A recipe that's found and used from a traditional website is convenient and efficient, but an old recipe that someone took time to write down has a personality of its own. Copyright 2017 by Stella Parks. When I first started baking in Melbourne, I made a simple chocolate cake, and it ended up on the front page of the weekend paper with the headline Worlds Best Chocolate Cake. From then on, I had this cult following, and in a way, it was a lot of pressure. Set the butter-chocolate mixture aside to cool slightly. and our Like its French and Swiss counterparts, German buttercream is sturdy enough to support even the most toweringlayer cake, but its pudding base gives German buttercream a down-home flavor and lightness suitable for even a simpleTexas sheet cakeas well. And there will be a next time: The Adkins' cake was decadent, moist and perfectly sweet. German chocolate was developed by chocolatier Samuel German for Baker's Chocolate Company in the 1800s. German chocolate cake. Terri Peters is a writer and editor for TODAY.com. I made the cream cheese frosting from Sallys Baking Addiction which was excellent. I made it in cupcakes (unfrosted, I'm not an icing fan). For an optimal experience visit our site on another browser. No matter how late the night, how big the dinner, how jet-lagged the out-of-town uncles and aunties, when a cake comes out, theres a communal surge in appetite and spirits. Next time, however, I'd double the frosting recipe, both to decorate the cake consistently and because it was incredibly tasty. Thank you for sharing what you learned - wonderful tips!. Refreshing, fun, and inspiring for seasoned and beginning bakers alike., Alice Medrich, James Beard Awardwinning author of Flavor Flours and Chewy Gooey Crispy Crunchy Melt-in-Your-Mouth Cookies, BraveTart is the book that every baker needs in the kitchen. The first published recipe for German chocolate cakea mild, slightly sweet chocolate base dressed in coconut-pecan frostingappeared in the May 10, 1956, edition of a local Dallas paper, The Irving News Record, where it was listed as "Summer German Chocolate cake." Under a cake dome or an inverted pot, the frosted cake will keep 24 hours at cool room temperature. Aren't they great?! Sift flour and baking soda right into the pan, then whisk thoroughly to combine, making sure there are no pockets of flour. "Once I started processing the recipes, I found indications that the owner also lived in Tullahoma, Tennessee The recipe collection looks like it contains recipes from the late '60s through the mid-'80s.". She has plans to make a cake for guests the next day fun! Over the next few days, the cake's flavors only intensified, growing more sweet, moist and chocolaty as time passed. Prop stylist: Chloe Daley. There are, it turns out, two kinds of Germans, and German chocolate cake owes its name not to the Teutonic nation but to a chocolate company. For all your baking needs! I'm Pastry Chef Stella Parks, and This Is How I Eat Recipe adapted slightly from BraveTart: Iconic American Desserts by Stella Parks. Adapted from BraveTart: Iconic American Desserts with permission from W. W. Norton. Cakes, cookies, pies, tarts, muffins, scones, short- rye- wheat- and naan breads welcome! Its not about the chocolate. Cranberry-lemon stripe cake.CreditDavide Luciano for The New York Times. The recipe calls for shortening and buttermilk in the cake batter, so I was anticipating a moist, flavorful cake. By clicking Accept All Cookies, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. One-Bowl Devil's Food Layer Cake With Milk Chocolate Frosting BraveTart: Iconic American Desserts: Parks, Stella, Lpez-Alt, J. Kenji I like to warm the milk with a vanilla bean (or other flavoring agents), then cover and steep for at least an hour. See what other Food52 readers are saying. Loosen the sides of the cakes with a knife and invert them onto a wire rack. There were warped, sloping cakes, speckled all over with hard pebbles of unsifted cocoa. But for maximum effect, you should steep it even longer by tossing it in the fridge overnight (or up to 24 hours) to extract a deeper flavor. Divide among the prepared cake pans (about 22 ounces each). I often finish my devil's food with a whipped chocolate ganachethe exact pairing you'll find in my cookbookbut when time is of the essence, achocolate Swiss buttercreamis faster by far, and a bit easier to handle for beginners. I thought it might taste artificial and saccharine, but it took only one perfectly gooey bite for all the other versions to fade into the distance. This recipe for an un-obnoxiously colored red velvet cake, with a prominent chocolate flavor, comes from self-proclaimed pastry wizard and Serious Eats contributor Stella Parks BraveTart. If something goes wrong with your buttercream, it can almost always be fixed. In a saucepan, combine milk, 1/2 cup butter and 1 cup brown sugar. I still have my practice as a psychologist in London; I also develop cakes for Ottolenghi, Yotams cafes in London. Use a long serrated knife to evenly trim the puffy tops off the cakes (set these aside for snacking). Repeat with the second and third layers, placing these cut-side down. palatable, nutritious, healthful; a great favorite for children, Its Time to Know the Name Rahanna Bisseret Martinez. From an award-winning pastry chef and a James Beard Award-nominated writer for Serious Eats, foolproof recipes and a fresh take on the history of American desserts, from chocolate chip cookies to toaster pastries. Ever scraped cold butter over toast? Repeat with second and third layers, then cover sides of cake with another cup of buttercream, spreading it as smoothly as you can (tutorial here). The response that caught my eye was from Redditor u/BestOfShow32569, Tony Thompson, who collects old recipe boxes and cookbooks and posts them on his website, Vintage Recipes. A toothpick inserted into the center will emerge with a few crumbs still attached. Of course, there is a recipe written on the back of the page," said Thompson. Putting the learners in with the fat instead of the dry ingredients. My book goes into more detail as to how and why this cake was named in honor of the Prince of Darkness, but here Id like to focus on technique. BraveTart by Stella Parks If you're steeping the milk with absorbent ingredients, like toasted nuts, or those with lots of nooks and crannies, such as fresh herbs or coffee beans, re-measure the milk and top it off as needed to account for any loss. Every recipe will bring a smile to your face and make you want to bring your family together and recreate your childhood birthday parties or other special moments. so what's the missing step supposed to say???? Dried plums are earthy and almost a little funky. The recipe only made enough frosting for the middle layer and the top of the cake, so in the interest of time, I grabbed some cream cheese frosting from my pantry to fill in where needed. Maximise downtime for frosting? I don't understand the first tip. Stella Parksaka "the BraveTart"knows more about cake than most people know about anything. Privacy Policy. Then we eat it warm, with extra sauce on the side, picking back up on our endless conversation about the next days food plans, and the next days cake. Really this was sloppy, missing the first steps (see another comment for directions) along with a misused word or two in the intro. Everyone, however, LOVED the cake and requested I make the cake over and over again. Finish the sides of the cake with remaining frosting, then lightly torch with a blowtorch, so the frosting turns golden brown. Switch to the whisk attachment and whip on medium speed until the buttercream is airy, soft, and light enough to weigh approximately 6 ounces per cup. Its just a smart balance of flavors., One of its more modern (and controversial) adaptationsan attempt to make the disheveled cake look a little more photogenicinvolves piping chocolate frosting over the top of the coconut pecan frosting. The cake itself has enough chocolate flavor that it can stand up to the filling, but its not stealing the show. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionists advice. The Best Chocolate for Baking. Divide batter between prepared cake pans, using about 23 ounces each. I occasionally take the temperature of my oven, to make sure it matches up with whats on the dial (it usually doesnt, and I adjust accordingly). Whatever finish you choose, generously frost the cake to seal it up and prevent moisture loss. Our German chocolate cake after being sliced. The country was finally getting back to normal after World War II, so cake culture exploded. He should know: Hes a pastry chef and the founder of the baking program at New Yorks Institute of Culinary Education. If it's too cold and dense, place the buttercream over a warm water bath until the sides of the bowl start to get slick with melted buttercream, then re-whip. Are you saying it's good to let the frosting rest for a long time before using? Equally important might be adding in the salt and leavener(s) called for in the recipe, when creaming sugar and butter, too. Adapted from "BraveTart: Iconic American Desserts," by Stella Parks (W.W. Norton, August, 2017). A little doming is natural, but with tall-sided pans, it shouldn't be more than a gentle bump. With a little attention to detail, it'll turn out soft, creamy, and perfectly fluffy every time, with a mellow sweetness and milky vanilla flavor. In the end, I'm proud to say it's a chocolate cake like no other, and worthy of the most special occasions. Before that, I did everything by hand, switching arms when I got tired, or turning to an ancient, wheezing electric whisk that would bend if it met cold butter and whir to a halt after a minute or two. Pour the mixture into the saucier and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly until thick and steaming hot. 5 Things I Learned Watching Stella Parks Bake a Cake - Food52 It came together quickly and required no decorating, simply taking on the curves of the Bundt pan. Classic Yellow Layer Cake with Fudge Frosting | May's Mutterings Combine butter, brown sugar, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and vanilla extract in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. According to a November 12, 1997, Dallas Morning News story, a St. Louis homemaker reported in a 1959 General Foods Co. newsletter that she was given a similar recipe in the 1920s but couldnt bake it at the time because she couldnt afford the ingredients during the Depression.